‘Every Cook Must Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.